Monthly ArchiveSeptember 2010

Seasonal Cooking 26 Sep 2010 04:46 pm

Cooking Highlights from a Busy Summer

This summer was great for cooking and eating even if it wasn’t so great for blogging on Dave’s Kitchen. (It was, however, great for blogging on Epicurious.)Here are a few highlights from a great foodie summer:

Mis en place for pea risotto…
…becomes actual pea risotto…
…which gets fried into pea risotto suppli that take third place at fourth edition of the Food Obstructions.
Chef Joe shows off his pizza dough technique during a July pizza party…
…and makes some amazing pizzas…
…with toppings taken from his amazing garden.
I made ice cream for the first time in several years. The first batch was raspberry-swirl.
And of course, I visited the unforgettable Vermont Cheesemaker’s Festival.

Happy Foodie Autumn everyone!

NYC Greenmarkets 24 Sep 2010 03:41 pm

Greenmarket Report: Chef Jordan Colòn at the McCarren Park Market

To kick off GrowNYC and Edible magazine’s second annual Eat Drink Local Week, local chef Jordan Colòn of EAT restaurant will be cooking at the market. Come watch him and eat his delicious food around 10am. Make sure to check out the Eat Drink Local shopping list for the ingredients of the week ( and pick up almost all of your ingredients at the market – get clams from Pura Vida, wine from King’s Ferry Winery, dairy from Ronnybrook Farm, and grapes, squash, and cauliflower from S & SO, Garden of Eve, Red Jacket Orchards, Healthway Farm, and Cranberry Hall Farm. You’ll certainly be eating well this week!

Seasonal Cooking 12 Sep 2010 06:33 pm

Roasted Tomato Sauce, or How I Learned to Love my Food Mill

The food mill I bought this summer from the Brooklyn Kitchen has reclaimed itself. I’d intended for it to become part of my arsenal of tools for making homemade sodas, but I was disappointed to find that none of its three interchangeable strainer plates would strain finely enough to make a good soda syrup. I’d envisioned the sturdy old Foley food mill that my mom used when making applesauce from the fruit that grew in our backyard. My new foodmill was not as sturdy and, well, it just wasn’t the same. I stuffed it into my cupboard and consigned it to a future stoop sale (for you Midwesterners, that’s city-talk for “Garage Sale”).

But I brought the food mill back out today to help me turn a pile of tomatoes into sauce. The plan: roast them until soft and then make a sauce for (what else) spaghetti and meatballs. The food mill, I thought, would separate out the tomato skins and create a coarse puree perfect for a pasta sauce. It did just that.

To prepare the tomatoes I did nothing more than wash them. I lined a roasting pan with a thin layer of olive oil, put the tomatoes inside, and drizzled a little more oil on top. I tossed in some unpeeled garlic cloves, topped it off with salt & pepper, and tossed it into a hot (425°) oven.

There are some that advocate a low-and-slow technique for roasting tomatoes. I’m sure this produces great results and am certain to try it someday. But today I didn’t want concentrated, oven-dried tomatoes – I wanted soft, juicy tomatoes, and
roasting them fast & furious seemed to do the trick. The tomatoes softened up quickly – after less than half an hour, and shed a considerable amount of water into the pan but stayed moist.

Once they were cool enough to handle they went into the food mill a scoop at a time (I pulled out the garlic for another use — they were just to add fragrance). The food mill did a fine job:  it kept back the tomato skins and pushed through a chunky, sweet tomato puree. This went into a big pot with onion, garlic, red wine and oregano where it sat over a low flame on the stove for the next several hours until it attained a nice thick pasta-sauce consistency.

One drawback: the sauce has a lot of seeds. I’ll give that some thought for next time. In the meantime, all it needs now are some meatballs and  spaghetti.